SKINCARE and BODY CARE GUIDE
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For the benefit of our visitors who
are considering a spa treatment which calls for ingredients in a mask or wrap
which are unfamiliar, read the index below before you go. Not only will it
educate you, you may be able to select a new or different treatment based on
something that piques your interest.
A
Aloe vera
Also known as aloe pryi, also known as aloe barbadensis. This plant is
colloquially called the first-aid plant. There are numerous species, in
excess of 300, of the aloe plant and it is commonly indigenous to South
Africa. The cream inside the plant contains a significant percentage of
water, aloins, sterols, albumin, and other essential oils. It has been used
medicinally for thousands of years, and is referred to in the Bible. There
is no scientific evidence to date that aloe vera has any benefits in
cosmetics according to recent information put forth by the American Medical
Association, yet it is commonly prescribed for the treatment of burns
Alpha Hydroxy
Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are commonly found in different concentrations in
many products. The most commonly used alpha hydroxy acids are glycolic, lactic,
malic, citric and tartaric acids. These mild acids serve to remove the outer
layer of dull skin and leave skin with a rejuvenated appearance.
Some of these acids are derived from fruit sources,
particularly citrus fruits, apples and grapes. Some of the alpha hydroxy acids,
such as glycolic acid, are found in sugar cane. Others, such as lactic acid, are
found in milk.
Lactic acid is also a naturally occurring substance in the
skin and is produced by our muscles when we work out. Lactic acid build up is in
fact what gives muscles cramping when they are over exerted. The most common
acids used in skin care are lactic acid and glycolic acid. Those people who are
allergic to the more commonly found glycolic acids should do very well with
lactic acid products because they are a naturally occurring substance in the
skin.
All of the alpha hydroxy acids serve to exfoliate the skin
and leave your skin with a better appearance. They should not be used too often
at high concentrations because they can leave the skin quite dry. At least one
alpha hydroxy acid product should be part of everyone’s regular skin care
regimen, and are most commonly found in the toner products in the skin care
lines sold on our web site.
If you are allergic to the most commonly found alpha hydroxy
acid, glycolic acid, the lactic acid products are available.
Amino acids
These are the body’s protein building blocks. There
are 22 amino acids, 8 of which cannot be made by the body but need to be
replaced in one’s diet. These are known as the essential amino acids because of
their necessity in maintaining life. A 9th amino acid, histidine, is known to be
required only in children. They are commonly used as emollients and moisturizers
in many skin products, and are thought to help the basic products penetrate the
skin.
Arnica
This herb is found typically in the Northern
Hemisphere. It can be applied externally to help treat bruising, particularly in
the postoperative period. Taken orally, preoperatively it can help reduce
bruising in patients having surgery. It is also known as wolf’s bane
Aromatherapy
This is the process of using a sense to gain relief
from something such as stress. It is now being promoted by many cosmetic
manufacturers for certain bath products and body lotions
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B
Balm mint
Also known as balm of gilead. This is an extract taken from some evergreens
found in the African and Asian continents. It is an ancient medication used
as a skin soothing agent. It is nontoxic.
Beeswax
This is taken from virgin bees and is used as an emulsifier. It is nearly
water insoluble. It is used in many cosmetics as well as baby creams, cold
creams, and many types of makeup. It can cause contact dermatitis but is
usually considered quite safe.
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C
Collagen is a naturally occurring substance
that can be found in the skin. Collagen from animal sources are used for
fillers in the skin. Collagen injections have been used for many years to
treat scars and fine wrinkling. The biggest problem with collagen is that it
goes away after several months and needs to be repeated. It is also rather
expensive. Many other substances such as fibril and now one’s own collagen
can be cultured and injected into the skin. Skin tests need to be done for
patients undergoing treatment prior to their first round of injections since
many people can demonstrate allergies to collagen.
Calamine
This is zinc oxide with approximately
5 to 6% of ferrous oxide that occurs as a pink powder. It is used in many
protective creams and lotions. It is used for the treatment of skin
diseases. The FDA proposed a ban of these products in 1992 to treat insect
bites and stings, but this has not been shown to be safe or effective. It
could be used as a skin protectant, but not as an external analgesic.
Calendula
This is a product of flowers, such as marigolds. It has been previously used
to soothe the inflammation of skin and mucus membranes and is now used in
“natural” creams for babies. It is often used in shampoos and other hair
preparations.
Clay mask
A clay mask is a deep cleansing treatment for the pores. It is usually a
mixture of different kinds of clays mixed with a creamy base. Clay masks are
helpful at keeping the skin clear, and clogged pores cleaned out. It helps
lift off debris and impurities on the skin due to the clay’s strong drawing
ability. Clay masks should not be used for more than 30 minutes, as it tends
to dry out which makes it extremely difficult for a clay mask to be removed.
These are very effective for people who have normal to oily skin and who
have clogged pores.
Cocoa butter
Also known as Theobroma oil. This serves to lubricate and soften the skin.
It comes from the seeds of the cocoa plant and is used in many products. It
can cause an allergic skin reaction.
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D
Dermabrasion can take two forms.
Dermabrasion is an old technique which is used to treat both scars from acne
or trauma as well as fine wrinkling. Its use for treatment of fine wrinkling
has been supplanted by most of the lasers and topical chemical agents. It
still has a place for the treatment of scars, however, since it is an
excellent tool for rounding out depressed or elevated scars. Dermabrasion
has similar effects in increasing collagen and elastin as the carbon dioxide
laser, erbium laser and chemical peels. It is less controlled as the depth
of penetration is a function of how hard the surgeon pushes on the
dermabrader, the length of time the dermabrader is in any one place, and the
quality of one’s skin. Most doctors no longer use dermabrasion on a regular
basis. The risks of dermabrasion can be depigmentation, infection, scarring
and persistent redness.
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E
Egg powder is used in several cosmetics and
shampoos. Some people believe that it is beneficial to dried out hair.
Emu oil
The emu is a very large bird which is not able to fly. The cosmetic
properties of emu oil were initially studied in Australia at the University
of Sidney. They are found to have anti-inflammatory properties which
penetrate the skin. It allegedly has very good moisturizing properties which
are better than mineral oil and have a lower incidence of pore clogging.
Endermologie
This is a relatively new method which is purported to help treat cellulite.
It was developed in Europe and became popular in the United States over the
last several years. This is thought to work by helping to break up pockets
of fat underneath the subcutaneous area. A hand held device picks the skin
up between two rollers, and drops it back against the skin. This is
non-invasive, and relatively painless. The benefits of Endermologie are
still undetermined.
Exfoliator
These are any products used to help speed the removal of the top or dead
layer of skin cells. This more rapidly allows new layers to come to the
surface. They do little to remove wrinkles, and are commonly used on the
face. Examples of exfoliators are alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy
acids. Other exfoliators are abrasive sponges, or micro dermabrasion. Some
facial masks also act as an exfoliator.
Eye creams
Eye creams are basically emollients without perfume. Since there is very
little subcutaneous fat around the eyes, it is commonly the first area where
wrinkles can be seen. Emollients are used to add moisture to the skin and to
reduce the visibility of wrinkles.
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F
Free radicals
These are molecules which are formed from various pollutants, smoke, and sun
exposure. They are unfortunately unavoidable in day-to-day life. Free
radical molecules can cause significant damage to the skin. Antioxidants
serve to diminish the effects of free radicals. Common antioxidants are
Vitamin C, E, superoxide dismutase, and certain forms of Vitamin A.
Antioxidants can be taken in orally with any form of fruit or vegetable, as
well as in oral dietary supplements, and can be applied directly to your
skin. Many antioxidant vitamins are a very important part of many skin care
regimens
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H
Henna
Henna has been used as an ancient cosmetic which is obtained from the dry
leaves and stems of a shrub found in North Africa and Near East. It causes a
reddish coloring of the hair.
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J
Jojoba oil
This product is found in many cosmetics and is extracted from a desert
shrub. It is commonly used in shampoos, sunscreens, and many moisturizers.
It is used as a treatment for wrinkles and stretch marks. It can produce an
allergic reaction.Return to top
K
Kavakava
Also known as piper methysticum, also known as kawa, also known as ava. This
herb found in Polynesia is used by herbalists as a topical analgesic or
antiseptic that can be applied directly to a painful wound.
Kelp
Kelp is a marine plant taken from macrocystis pyriferae. Many herbalists use
this to help regulate the texture of skin.
Kukui nut oil
Also known as aleurites moluccana, also known as candle nut oil, also known
as lumbang oil. The oil from this tropically found tree is used to make
soap. Hawaiians have been using it for many centuries to treat dry skin,
psoriasis, and other common skin problems.
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Moisturizers
Skin, especially on the face, has oil glands which keep it moisturized. As
one gets older, and in colder air, the skin tends to get drier. The solution
for dry skin is the use of moisturizers. The type of moisturizer one uses is
dependent upon one’s skin type. The moisturizer used is also varied
depending upon the season with heavier, more effective moisturizers used
during the winter. Lighter moisturizers are typically lotions and contain a
higher water content. They evaporate more readily than the heavier
moisturizers which contain more petroleum based products and less water.
Most moisturizers contain a balance of petroleum based products with water,
some additional ingredients such as humectants help deliver moisture from
below the skin to where it is needed. An example of a commonly used
humectant is glycerin.Return to top
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O
Oatmeal
Oatmeal has been used as a topical face mask throughout the ages. Typically
it is mixed with water into a paste and applied. It is a soothing agent
which is of historic value
Olive oil
Olive oil is used in many skin care preparations due to its anti-wrinkle
properties. This is due to the moisturizing effect. Some individuals are
allergic to olive oil.
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P
Parsley extract
Also known as Petroselinum Crypsum. This plant is believed by ancient
herbalists to grow hair when rubbed into the scalp.Return to top
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S
Salicylic acid
This occurs naturally in many plants. It can also be synthetically made. It
is used externally as an antiseptic agent, as well as an antifungal agent
and skin sloughing ingredient. It is commonly used in the treatment for
removal of warts in the form of an Occlusal. Salicylic Acid also is
currently used for its anti-aging properties in the form of beta hydroxy
acids.
Shea butter
This is a fat obtained from the fruit of the kirite tree. It is commonly
used in various moisturizers and suntan products.
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